Friday, December 14, 2007

The Big Gun

There has been a rise in people shooting .50 BMG rifles. These were originally military rifles, but know they are being used for hunting large game, like elk. This is the third of three posts on guns (Buying a Used Gun and Gun Maintenance). Here are some tips on these guns.

Expensive:
If you are planning on getting one of these be ready to shell out upwards of $1000 and up to $5000. These guns will break you budget, but some deem it worth the money.

Recoil:

These guns KICK HARD!!! If you can’t handle a 12 gauge shotgun or even if a 12 gauge hurts a little don’t buy the .50 BMG. Be prepared to get some serious scope eye when first beginning with these.

Distance:
These guns can be used accurately up to 1000 yards which is where competition matches are usually shot at. So unless you live out west you probably won’t be able to buy one of these and be able to shoot it.

Knock Down Power:
The .50 BMG has 3280 ft. lb. of energy at 1400 yards. Compare that to a .30/06 which only has 2619 ft. lb. at MUZZLE. So be prepared for a large hole in whatever you shoot at.

Scope:
You will need a very good scope if you want to take advantage of this gun’s long range. This scope will put you back at least another $500.

Calculations:
You will need to have at least one other person with you when you hunt with this gun. This is because when you shoot from 1000 yards the wind has a major impact on the shot. You will need one person to make these calculations while you get set up.

All in all, the .50 BMG is definitely not as popular as a 20 gauge or .22, but it is growing in popularity at a faster rate than most guns. If you want to shoot one of these make sure you have the money, the room, and skill. So have fun and safe hunting.

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Tuesday, December 11, 2007

Buying a Used Gun

This is the second of three posts on guns; stay around for the next one. Normally I wouldn’t advise someone to buy a used gun, but if you are on a tight budget, here are some tips for you.

The Barrel has a Bulge or is Bulimic:
A barrel with some light pitting inside shouldn’t be of too much concern. It should shoot fine and if it gets worse the gunsmith should be able to fix it easily. What you should be concerned for is larger holes that would hold a no. 8 or 9 pellet. If you see these walk away. Also, if there is any bulges in the barrel walk away because this could cause a misfiring or even a shattered barrel.

Bad Triggers:
This especially applies to double barrel guns. If a double barrel gun has heavy or dragging trigger(s), be prepared to shell out some money for this to get fixed, it will be expensive. A single barrel trigger shouldn’t be too expensive to fix.

Twisting Barrels:
Also know as Damascus barrels, these are recognized from the twisting pattern of the steel. Watch out for these, they are more prone to be less safe with lower pressure smokeless powder. Don’t but these unless you are the man (and by that I mean - you know everything and you’re an expert on guns, which in this case you don’t need to read this post).

Weird Stock:
Make sure the stock is comfortable. Some older guns have an extreme drop at the heel; this may cause you to be uncomfortable. It is expensive and hard to bend these into a comfortable position. Stay away from guns that need restocking because it is usually more expensive than what you would get if you went right back around and sold it.

Check the Chamber Dimension:
Some older guns have 2 ½ or 2 9/16 inch chambers. It is difficult if not impossible to find ammo for these guns or to change them into modern sizes. These would be a definite “walk away.”

A used gun can provide lots of enjoyment to a shooter and a collector. Make sure that you follow these rules if you are going to buy one. Many guns are sold for cheap when they are used and many of these guns are safe, but those few ruin it for everyone. So always check it before you buy it.

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Gun Maintenance
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Monday, December 10, 2007

Gun Maintenance

This is going to be the first post of a 2-3 that talks about guns. Every hunter’s most important tool is his gun. If the gun goes bad so does the hunter. There are simple steps that one can take to prevent your gun from rusting, misfiring, or becoming inaccurate.

Scrub the Barrel:
Cleaning you gun after shooting isn’t just running an oily patch through it. You need to get a phosphor-bronze brush and scrub the entire bore thoroughly. Next, you need to run some patches with powder solvent through the barrel. Repeat those steps until the gun is clean (you can tell the difference). Then run an oily patch through the bore for storage.

Remove Rust:
Rust can ruin a gun if it gets out of hand. To prevent this, scrub the rust with some 0000 steel wool and a little oil. If it is the trigger that is rusted; I would advise you to go to a gunsmith.

Replace Burred Screws:
Burred Screws can make adjustments to the gun more difficult than they need to be. Most burred screws can be removed before they are too burred to remove (If you can’t remove them, you will have to go to a gunsmith.). To get replacement screws, go to a gunsmith or you can most likely order them online at from the manufacturer.

Reblue Unblue Areas:
You might consider those unblue spots to be the times you and your gun have been together, but those spots are the most likely to become rusted. To fix it, get some gun blue from either a hunting retailer or online.

Clean Your Scope:
You might have paid just as much for your scope as you did for you gun. So why would you not pay the same attention to it. Make sure that you clean the lenses regularly with camera lens or glasses cleaner. Clean the body with a dry cloth.

Gun maintenance is often forgotten about, but it is just as important as any other part of your hunting regime. So remember to clean and your gun should last you for a while.

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Saturday, December 8, 2007

Bobcat Hunting Tips

Bobcat hunting can be hard if done improperly. It can also be one of the most exciting species to hunt, especially if you call bobcats in the dark. I’ll give you some tips for hunting bobcats, and hopefully you hunting this year will be successful after my bobcat hunting tips.

Hunt in a tree stand:
This is usually overlooked in bobcat hunting, but like deer hunting it provides several benefits. One is that you can see farther in a stand; this allows you to see the bobcat before it is too late and you spook him. This technique is even better with calling. When you use a dying rabbit call, the bobcat will start sneaking up on you and when the cover is thick you won’t be able to see him unless you’re in a tree stand.

Walk the Canyon:
If you have a canyon or large ravine where you hunt this tip is for you. Walk along the side of the canyon and watch the opposite side for movement. If you see something move, sit down and look at it through you binoculars. If it’s a bobcat you shoot, otherwise keep walking. This can be repeated on the other side of the canyon also.

Find the Den:
This is one of the best ways to hunt coyotes. First you need to find a bobcat den. Then you set up outside of the den and either sit there quietly or provoke the bobcat out with a call.

The Electronic Call:
This is one of the new techniques that in recent years have been growing in popularity. You can find a good electronic predator call (make sure it can be used with a wireless controller) at Dick’s, Gander Mountain, Cabela’s, or any other hunting store. Once you have one, you set it up about 50-100 yards away in or behind a bush. You then find a spot to sit (this can be in a tree stand). Every now and then you press the call and wait for a bobcat to show itself and you shoot. This technique usually requires a large bobcat population to be successful quickly.

Walk and Call:
This is one of the more common ways to hunt bobcats. You get yourself a predator call at one of the previously mentioned stores. Then you head out to bobcat area and set up in a spot where you can see clearly but it is hard to be seen. Then blow through the call every 10 minutes. If no bobcat shows itself in about 30 minutes of calling move about a quarter mile away and do the same thing.

All of these techniques can be duplicated in the dark, except the canyon one. For the dark you should bring a strong headlamp and when you see the bobcat shine the light in its eyes. This should freeze the bobcat for long enough to get a shot off. (Check your state’s regulations to see if hunting at night and using a headlamp is legal.)

Bobcat hunting can be very rewarding and there is nothing dull about it especially when done at night. Hopefully this year can be a success with these techniques and happy hunting.

Here are some tips on Coyotes

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Wednesday, December 5, 2007

Quick Tip: How to Collect Deer Antler Sheds + Monster Buck Near Gas Station


Many people go out and “hunt” for deer antlers that have been shed. They consider this the best way to determine if a big buck is on you property. They usually go out and wander in the woods, but I have a better way that I learned in a Field and Stream magazine.

Make a Shed Antler Trap:

•Find a small tree to the side of a deer trail that is used often.
•Drive two posts about 3-4 feet away from the tree.
•Wrap wire fencing around the tree and connect an end at each post.
•Place acorns, soybeans, salt, corn, or any other food source at the base
of the tree.
•To keep bucks from getting entangled with the wire, make sure the openings in the
wire are at least 30 inches across and the fencing is a little loose.

Bucks will be more than ready to take this “free” meal after the long rut. The way it is supposed to work is after the rut the pedicles or base of the antlers loosen. When the go in for the food the buck’s antlers will hit the fencing and fall off. Field and Stream claims no bucks have ever been caught by this.

Also, check out this monster buck Field and Stream has on their website. Its antlers are so wide, I’ve never seen antlers like that. It was photographed in Rawlins, Wyoming. The link and full story is here.

Tuesday, December 4, 2007

Quick Tip: Tracking Deer in the Snow

When your hunting in the snow, you see tons of deer tracks, but you continue to your deer stan without much of a thought. While you're up on your stand, you start thinking about what you saw. "Man, those are some big tracks," you think to yourself. You get bored in your stand so you decide to check out the tracks. Here are some tips to help you:

-Tracks that are 3 inches to 3 ½ inches usually means it's a big buck.

-The edge of a track that is fresh will give to the slightest touch of your hand.

-Both does and bucks have dewclaws, but does will usually only leave the marks when running or in snow deeper than 3 inches.

-The hoof size is distorted in the snow, because when a deer lifts up its foot it drags a little, creating a larger track.

-The walking stride of a buck is usually between 18 to 22 inches. A doe will have strides generally less than 19 inches.

-8 or more inches between the right and left legs indicates a large buck.

-The midline between the toes of a deer will become frozen and be solid to the touch after 45 minutes to 2 hours, depending on the temperature.
-Your skin transmits heat at approximately the same rate as a deer's hoof.

-Most deer have longer outside toes.