Friday, December 14, 2007

Gun Tips - Is .50 BMG too Big for Hunting?

There has been a rise in people shooting .50 BMG rifles. These were originally military rifles, but know they are being used for hunting large game, like elk. This is the third of three posts on guns (Buying a Used Gun and Gun Maintenance). Here are some tips on these guns.

Expensive:If you are planning on getting one of these be ready to shell out upwards of $1000 and up to $5000. These guns will break you budget, but some deem it worth the money.


These guns KICK HARD!!! If you can’t handle a 12 gauge shotgun or even if a 12 gauge hurts a little don’t buy the .50 BMG. Be prepared to get some serious scope eye when first beginning with these.

These guns can be used accurately up to 1000 yards which is where competition matches are usually shot at. So unless you live out west you probably won’t be able to buy one of these and be able to shoot it.

Knock Down Power:
The .50 BMG has 3280 ft. lb. of energy at 1400 yards. Compare that to a .30/06 which only has 2619 ft. lb. at MUZZLE. So be prepared for a large hole in whatever you shoot at.

You will need a very good scope if you want to take advantage of this gun’s long range. This scope will put you back at least another $500.

You will need to have at least one other person with you when you hunt with this gun. This is because when you shoot from 1000 yards the wind has a major impact on the shot. You will need one person to make these calculations while you get set up.

All in all, the .50 BMG is definitely not as popular as a 20 gauge or .22, but it is growing in popularity at a faster rate than most guns. If you want to shoot one of these make sure you have the money, the room, and skill. So have fun and safe hunting.

For more gun tips check out:
Gun Recoil Reduction
The Best Turkey Gun

Tuesday, December 11, 2007

Guide to Buying a Used Gun

This is the second of three posts on guns (Proper Gun Maintenence and The .50 BMG Rifle- For Hunting?. Normally I wouldn’t advise someone to buy a used gun, but if you are on a tight budget, here are some tips for you.

The Barrel has a Bulge or is Bulimic:
A barrel with some light pitting inside shouldn’t be of too much concern. It should shoot fine and if it gets worse the gunsmith should be able to fix it easily. What you should be concerned for is larger holes that would hold a no. 8 or 9 pellet. If you see these walk away. Also, if there is any bulges in the barrel walk away because this could cause a misfiring or even a shattered barrel.

Bad Triggers:
This especially applies to double barrel guns. If a double barrel gun has heavy or dragging trigger(s), be prepared to shell out some money for this to get fixed, it will be expensive. A single barrel trigger shouldn’t be too expensive to fix.

Twisting Barrels:
Also know as Damascus barrels, these are recognized from the twisting pattern of the steel. Watch out for these, they are more prone to be less safe with lower pressure smokeless powder. Don’t but these unless you are the man (and by that I mean - you know everything and you’re an expert on guns, which in this case you don’t need to read this post).

Weird Stock:
Make sure the stock is comfortable. Some older guns have an extreme drop at the heel; this may cause you to be uncomfortable. It is expensive and hard to bend these into a comfortable position. Stay away from guns that need restocking because it is usually more expensive than what you would get if you went right back around and sold it.

Check the Chamber Dimension:
Some older guns have 2 ½ or 2 9/16 inch chambers. It is difficult if not impossible to find ammo for these guns or to change them into modern sizes. These would be a definite “walk away.”

A used gun can provide lots of enjoyment to a shooter and a collector. Make sure that you follow these rules if you are going to buy one. Many guns are sold for cheap when they are used and many of these guns are safe, but those few ruin it for everyone. So always check it before you buy it.

Other gun related posts:

Monday, December 10, 2007

Gun Maintenance Tips - How to Maintain Your Hunting Gun

This is going to be the first post of series of posts that talk about guns (The .50 BMG- For Hunting? and Guide to Buying a Used Gun). Every hunter’s most important tool is his gun. If the gun goes bad so does the hunter. There are simple steps that one can take to prevent your gun from rusting, misfiring, or becoming inaccurate.

Scrub the Barrel:
Cleaning you gun after shooting isn’t just running an oily patch through it. You need to get a phosphor-bronze brush and scrub the entire bore thoroughly. Next, you need to run some patches with powder solvent through the barrel. Repeat those steps until the gun is clean (you can tell the difference). Then run an oily patch through the bore for storage.

Remove Rust:
Rust can ruin a gun if it gets out of hand. To prevent this, scrub the rust with some 0000 steel wool and a little oil. If it is the trigger that is rusted; I would advise you to go to a gunsmith.

Replace Burred Screws:
Burred Screws can make adjustments to the gun more difficult than they need to be. Most burred screws can be removed before they are too burred to remove (If you can’t remove them, you will have to go to a gunsmith.). To get replacement screws, go to a gunsmith or you can most likely order them online at from the manufacturer.

Reblue Unblue Areas:
You might consider those unblue spots to be the times you and your gun have been together, but those spots are the most likely to become rusted. To fix it, get some gun blue from either a hunting retailer or online.

Clean Your Scope:
You might have paid just as much for your scope as you did for you gun. So why would you not pay the same attention to it. Make sure that you clean the lenses regularly with camera lens or glasses cleaner. Clean the body with a dry cloth.

Gun maintenance is often forgotten about, but it is just as important as any other part of your hunting regime. So remember to clean and your gun should last you for a while.

Other gun related posts:
The Perfect Turkey Gun
Recoil Reduction
Tips on How to Buy a Used Gun

Tuesday, December 4, 2007

Quick Deer Hunting Tip: Tracking Deer in the Snow

When your hunting in the snow, you see tons of deer tracks, but you continue to your deer stan without much of a thought. While you're up on your stand, you start thinking about what you saw. "Man, those are some big tracks," you think to yourself. You get bored in your stand so you decide to check out the tracks. Here are some tips to help you:

How to Track Deer in the Snow:

-Tracks that are 3 inches to 3 ½ inches usually means it's a big buck.

-The edge of a track that is fresh will give to the slightest touch of your hand.

-Both does and bucks have dewclaws, but does will usually only leave the marks when running or in snow deeper than 3 inches.

-The hoof size is distorted in the snow, because when a deer lifts up its foot it drags a little, creating a larger track.

-The walking stride of a buck is usually between 18 to 22 inches. A doe will have strides generally less than 19 inches.

-8 or more inches between the right and left legs indicates a large buck.

-The midline between the toes of a deer will become frozen and be solid to the touch after 45 minutes to 2 hours, depending on the temperature.
-Your skin transmits heat at approximately the same rate as a deer's hoof.

-Most deer have longer outside toes.

For more quick deer hunting tips check out:
For late season deer hunting tips check out:

Friday, November 30, 2007

Post-Rut Deer Hunting Tips II

Don't Quit Now!

I'm continuing my previous post on post-rut/late season deer hunting tips with another article on the same subject. I'm just going to list a few more hunting strategies for late season deer hunting.

The Decoy:
Hunting with a decoy is a promising strategy at almost any time of the year. The only requirements are that you choose and use the decoys properly. For late season deer hunting, using a feeding doe with a subdominant buck tends to work the best. A larger buck will usually get mad when he sees what looks like a smaller buck stealing his hot doe. He will come after the subdominant buck and that's when you need to be set up with a clear shot at him.

Bump and Hide:
This can be done with one or two people. If you have two set up one person downwind of a buck's bedding area. The other person starts on the upwind side of bedding area and tries to push the deer up and locate where it was resting. The other person is sitting there to see if he can get lucky and have the buck walk past him when you bump the buck, but the first person is not necessary. You then leave for the day and come back the next day as early as possible and set up a stand over the site where you bumped him. The buck will usually return in one to three days.

This is usually not considered an idea anyone would consider during hunting season, but it can be successful in helping you later this year and early in the next season. What you need to do is try to locate the new routes bucks are using after the rut. These usually are the same ones they used early in the season, but they can still change in the short amount of time. Once you locate these you can hunt with many of the strategies already listed in this and my previous post.

Spot and Stalk:
This is an excellent choice if there is snow on the ground or you are a proficient tracker. First you locate fresh deer tracks in the snow and decide if they are fresh or not (I plan to write my next post on this topic.). Then you follow the tracks as quietly as possible to not disturb other deer or to give the one being tracked any reason for him to believe he is being followed. You may have to follow the deer the entire day to get on shot at him, but it is usually less boring then sitting in a tree all day. You can also walk steadily through the woods looking for deer and glassing constantly in hopes of finding one without you spooking it. You then stalk it until in range and let loose the bullets.

All the techniques mentioned can be very useful if you used properly and at the correct time. My personal favorite is probably the "Spot and Stalk" because it tends to make deer hunting a little more interesting. It also seems more traditional, especially if done with a bow.

For late season deer hunting tips check out: Post-Rut Deer Hunting Tips I
For deer bow hunting tips check out: Bow Hunting Tips for Deer

For more tips check out: How to Kill Big Bucks

Tuesday, November 27, 2007

Post-Rut Deer Hunting Tips

The rut is over in most parts of the country and many hunters are hanging up the gun or bow, but this isn't the time to sit around. Post-rut can be the best times to kill a monster buck, you just have to know how to do it.

Food Source:
Bucks are tired after chasing does during the rut, and they need to rest and eat for the winter that is coming up ahead. Bucks will still be elusive until the hunting pressure calms down a little and you will need to locate food sources close to their bedding area. Later once the pressure has calmed down, the deer will move to a bedding area close to a prime food source (acorns, honeysuckle, corn, soybeans, winter crops, etc.). You can either set up over the food source or you can be more successful by setting up over a deer path that leads from the food source to the bedding area.

Young Does:
Young does usually don't go in heat at the same time as older ones. They go in heat later in the year. If you want to do well with this strategy you have to know where the young does travel and eat. You then set up near that area with a feeding doe decoy, "in heat" scent, and some bleat calls or you can set up in the buck's area (as previously mentioned in the food source) with the same set up. Both ways will work if properly executed.

The Drive:

I don't usually like doing drives (I feel it's for people who don't have the skill or don't put in the effort to be able to pick a spot and be successful with it.), but drives can be an engaging activity for late season hunting. One drive technique that is usually successful if you have about four or five people (it can be done with as many as twenty though) is just a normal drive through the bedding or feeding area of a buck. For this, have two people set up downwind from the chosen area. Then have the remaining people walk in a zigzag pattern though the bedding area with wind coming from their backs. Another technique is for a smaller group. If you know of a ravine or other funnel that deer frequently travel through this is the way to go for you. Have one hunter set up on the top of the ravine with his face to the wind. The other one or two people walk in a zigzag pattern towards the ravine. Both will be excellent ways to put deer in the freezer.

Deer hunting in the post-rut is usually not done as frequently as during the rut, but post-rut is easier to pattern deer and to kill them with your skill and not your luck.

For late season deer hunting tips check out: Post-Rut Deer Hunting Tips II

For other deer hunting tips check out:
How to Track Deer in the Snow

For more tips check out: How to Kill Big Bucks

Saturday, November 17, 2007

Deer News across the US

A young buck weighing about 100-125 pounds had to be euthanized after jumping into the polar bear exhibit containing two bears weighing 650 pounds, at the Pittsburgh Zoo.

Full Story:

A Missouri hunter shot a 9 point deer. He then went down to field dress it and he realized he had just killed a 9 point doe!!! The sex of the deer was confirmed with the authorities.

Full Story with pictures of the deer and proof of being a doe:

Wednesday, November 14, 2007

Potential New World Record Mule Deer!!!

An expert, Boone and Crockett scorer (anonymity mostly because the deer is still walking), recently received a photograph of a deer that he believes could be a world record trophy. He believes that if this deer is shot this fall it will be the biggest non-typical deer killed by a hunter.
The first assumption by many will be that this buck is pen raised, but the farmer who photographed the deer says that it is not pen raised and that he has seen it on his farm several other times. The farmer doesn’t allow hunters but the surrounding land that is definitely with range for the buck do. I won’t release the area (first because I don’t know the exact area) but it is in a region where people don’t usually think of trophy deer hunting.
If I find any other information on this buck or if it is a hoax I will certainly try to let you know.

For more tips check out: How to Kill Big Bucks

What do you think about the deer is it a hoax or not?

Full article at

Wednesday, November 7, 2007

Deer Scents- How to Use Scents to Become a Better Deer Hunter

Many people believe that scents can be one of the best ways to lure a buck or doe inside killing range. I am one of those people. I have seen countless time when I put a ‘Doe in heat’ scent and later on a buck will appear and start trotting towards the scent. They usually stop about ten yards away, since they don’t see a doe near by. This stop is the perfect time to shoot. Though scents may be a great hunting tool, you have to choose them effectively to be able to use them.

Early Season:
Once a buck loses his velvet, his mindset and testosterone levels change. During this time, bucks are looking to mark their domain and establish a pecking order among them. In other words, they want to know who the King of the Woods is and who they can beat. This is the perfect time to set out buck urine scents. When a buck smells a buck urine scent, they naturally think it is another buck. They then set out to find the ‘other buck’ and know if it is the King or just another one and a half year old. You can also combine this technique with scraping noises simulating a buck rubbing a tree. These two techniques combined will send a high testosterone level buck insane.


The pre-rut is considered the time 10-15 days before the peak of the rut. The peak of the rut is generally defined as the time when most does are receptive to breeding. This is also the time when bucks start fighting to win does and to establish their territory. There is also an increase in rubs and scrapes as bucks are getting ready to fight and are marking their domain. During this period, some sort of buck scent is still best. Buck scent combined with a decoy and some grunting and rattling can be lethal during this time of year.

Peak Rut:
This period is when bucks single out does and stay with them until they go out of estrous. During this period it is obvious that “doe in heat” scents will work the best. Bucks will be looking for a doe and if they smell one that they think doesn’t have a buck tending her; he will surely go towards the smell. This scent can be combined with a doe decoy, and it can be combined with a doe decoy and non-dominant buck decoy. The non-dominant buck will instill fire inside of the more dominant bucks making them more likely to come out from their usual deep woods habitat.

Post Rut:
This is after the time when most does are susceptible to breeding. “Doe in heat” scents still work very well during this time. They sometimes work better because bucks will be eager breed one more doe that season. Food scents might also work if the area you are hunting doesn’t have a plentiful harvest of food. Food scents work because after the rut bucks are worn out and malnourished, and this is the period where it is crucial they stock up on food for the winter ahead.

Scents can be one of the best tools for a hunter. Scents, when used right and combined with calling and decoys, will greatly increase your chances of harvesting a deer.

For more deer hunting tips check out:
Post-Rut Deer Hunting Tips I
Post-Rut Deer Hunting Tips II
Five Deer Bow Hunting Tips

For more tips check out: How to Kill Big Bucks

Five Bow Hunting Tips

Bow hunters don’t kill good deer consistently because they have a rabbit’s foot in their pocket. It is true sometimes deer hunters are lucky and a monster walks by, but those are isolated incidents. To kill deer consistently with a bow you need to practice and be using some sort of plan to outsmart the deer.

When picking a hunting location, you want to make sure your stand has some of the several necessities. First you need to be able to access your stand without spooking deer. This is one of the harder items to accomplish. One way to help accomplish this is to cut a path to you stand during the summer. You also will need at least two stands for different wind directions. Also, you will need a location where deer will pass within thirty yards of you stand during shooting hours.

Pack it Light:
Another tactic is packing light so you can do more stalking and still hunting. What you need for this set up is a light tree climber and the minimum of gear so you are not dragged down during you hunt. To be successful you need to hunt slowly and patiently so you do not spook or miss deer.

The Little Things:
The little things all add up to be very important and can be the difference between a shot and staring at a bobbing white tail as the deer jumps away. First thing to do once up in a stand is check you safety harness (What do you mean you don’t have one!?) and your bow to make sure they are functioning properly and that you can make a complete draw and release without getting a twig caught. Also, double check you shooting lanes, even a small twig can move your arrow enough to be off target.

Know the Land:
To be successful every year, you have to know every foot of the land you are hunting. This allows you to be able to change your plans quickly and to be to know where the most likely places the deer will be during a certain time. To do this you have to be able to observe deer and the signs throughout every season. Then once you file away that knowledge you will be able to be more consistent during the hunt in the coming season.

Start Early:
Trimming shooting lanes and putting up stands several months before the season will help let deer settle down after you disturbed their peace. Also, while you are trimming and setting up stands don’t forget to make a path to your stand so you can get their quietly. I have seen times when a person does all the work for the season a week before and they don’t see anything because they have spooked all the deer.

Being a successful hunter isn’t all about luck (though it certainly helps), it is about the preparation and practice you put in before the season. So, practice, be smart, and kill a deer this season.

For more deer hunting tips check out:
Post-Rut Deer Hunting Tips I
Post-Rut Deer Hunting Tips II

Saturday, July 28, 2007

Hog Hunting Tips 101- How to Hunt Hogs

Deer season is over and your waiting until it comes around next year. Why wait when in 31 states can hunt hogs. When a few hundred pounds of wild, muscular, tusked hog comes charging at you there is not much you can hunt that is more exciting. Pigs are starting to take over the landscape in the south and many farmers don’t have enough time to hunt and kill the hogs, so they lets hunters come on their property and hunt for them. The top six states for hunting hogs are Texas, Florida, California, North Carolina, Tennessee, and Mississippi.
So how do you hunt these pigs? First you need a gun, your deer rifle should suffice. Then you’ve got a couple options if you’re a picky hunter. You can spot and stalk, stand hunt, or even dog hunting. In any of these methods the best time is the same time as deer, early morning and late evening.

Spot and Stalk:
If you chose the spot and stalk way some information that might be helpful is that hogs have a very good sense of hearing and smell, but their sight isn’t very developed. To spot them you can drive around on roads looking for them if roads are common in the area hunting or you can stand on a hill with some binoculars. When hunting be sure to be checking water sources frequently because during the summer hogs get hot.

Stand Hunting:
Another way is stand hunting. You’re somewhat handicapped in this technique because of the inclination of hogs wandering around a lot. But if you use a timed feeder which is legal in lots of states you can kill a lot of hogs during a season. Another area to put up your stand is by water holes or mud areas where the hogs go when it’s hot.

Using Dogs to Hunt Hogs:
When you are hog hunting with dogs you might need a guide if you are not experienced with hunting dogs. You can use many different types of dogs for this but you old labs probably won’t do well. Otherwise how you hunt with you dogs is pretty much the same as spot and stalk except that you let you dogs loose in an area with lots of hogs signs and watch chase down a hog. How you kill the hog is up to you because most states don’t have many restrictions.

So next spring don’t stand around at home waiting for deer season go out and hunt some hogs.

For turkey hunting tips check out: Turkey Hunting Tips
For help on a turkey hunting gun check out:The $30 Turkey Gun

Thursday, July 26, 2007

Summer Deer Scouting Tips - How to Scout Deer in the Summer

for all you slackers.
There are many different ways to scout in the summer from trail cameras to just walking around in the woods looking for deer signs. These are some of my favorite ways to scout in the summer.

Scout from a Distance:
You can scout from a distance many different ways. You can sit on the edge of food fields with binoculars or a spotting scope and watch as deer come and go during the twilight time. As you do this you should be paying attention to the certain areas where you can set up a stand that will be where most the deer come in and out (or where the big buck does). You can also scout from your truck or car if the area you hunt is littered with roads.

Use Trail Cameras:
Trail cameras can be a great way to watch deer trails or food plots without disturbing the deer with your presence. The best trail cameras are the ones without the normal flash these don't spook deer (which is why we use trail cameras). You can put a trail camera anywhere you suspect a big bucks comes through or where you think there is a deer trail littered with does (this will help during the rut when all the bucks are searching for does).

Find the Core Areas:
When I'm talking about core areas I mean their bedding areas, food plots, and trails. You can do this with aerial photography or with trail cameras or if its early enough in the summer or spring you can just walk through the areas you suspect to find these areas and look for clues. Once you find these areas you can set up a stand/s that will take advantage of your hard or easy work.

If you take advantage of these tips your percentages of success will greatly increase. I know people who when doing these strategies have increased their success rate by two-fold.

For more deer hunting tips check out:
Post-Rut Deer Hunting Tips I
Post-Rut Deer Hunting Tips II
Five Deer Bow Hunting Tips

Sunday, July 15, 2007

11 Coyote Hunting Tips

Many people see coyotes and are in range to shoot them, but they miss. These are some of the top reasons why people miss a shot at a coyote or predators (some of this doesn't just apply to predators but to all animals).

Eleven Reasons for missing a Coyote:

1) Too much scope - Many people think that the more scope power the better. This isn't always true. When you have too much scope power, you'll miss a shot at a coyote that surprises you at a close range. To prevent this always keep your scope at a low magnitude and increase it if needed.

2) Not having a rest - Shots at coyotes can be up to 300 yards or 400 if your really good. Not having a rest will make your gun wobble uncontrollably these longer ranges. Getting some sort of rest is a must if you are serious about coyote hunting. You can by one at a store or make you own.

3) Can't hit 'em while they're running - All your shots at a coyote won't be while he is standing still. Be able to handle the running shot. Great practice for this is flushing out rabbits with a .22 or other similar caliber.

4) Forgot trajectory - At 200 yards a rifle bullet won't still be flying straight it will start to dip. Many times people when they are hunting forget about this and their shot goes low. To prevent this practice, practice, practice. Practice at different yardage to figure out you trajectory.

5) It's windy - With almost all shots over 100 yards the wind has to be taken into account. Just a little wind can move your bullet a couple inches. This could be the difference in a clean kill or a couple hours of tracking.

6) Closed lanes - If you only have a small opening to shoot at a coyote your shot will be hurried and off target. To prevent this make sure your shooting a lanes are clear and your have lots of open space.

7) Didn't pick a spot - This is a frequent occurrence among people. They tend to aim at just the general vital area instead of picking a spot to shoot. Practicing picking a spot while shooting will greatly increase your kills.

8) Haven't practiced - If you go into the coyote season without shooting your gun at all except for the weekend before. You are going to be a pretty poor shot and will miss some that you should have had.

9) You don't understand coyotes - Lots of hunters don't understand coyote behavior and the coyote will surprise the hunter when he sprints towards the rabbit call like they sometimes do (unlike a bobcat which stalks its prey).

10) Your butt hurts- If you don't have a comfortable seat you won't be able to stay on a stand as long and you will miss many opportunities. Get a comfortable hunting seat and that problem should be taken care of.

11) You're flinching - This is a big reason why younger shooters miss. This can be because you have a gun that is too big or because your gun is too loud. You can help prevent these problems by buying a recoil pad and ear muffs.
For more tips on gun recoil vist: Gun Recoil Reduction Tips

For coyote calling tips check out: How to Call Coyotes
For bobcat hunting tips check out: Bobcat Hunting Tips

Thursday, July 5, 2007

Wolf Hunting Tips? Not yet...

It was predicted that the reintroduction of grey wolves in Yellowstone National Park would hurt the elk herd in a 1 to 10 loss, but that prediction was wrong. The elk population was actually reduced by almost half after the reintroduction of the grey wolf.
The last count of the grey wolf population in the Northern Rockies of Idaho, Montana, and Wyoming was 1,246 wolves. This population is at or very near the carrying capacity, but the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service won’t classify the grey wolf as certified. There reasons are that only Idaho and Montana have management plans for the grey wolf. Wyoming just states the grey wolf as a predator which allows anyone to shoot it anytime – which the USFWS denied.
The USFWS and Wyoming are still working on a compromise which could prove costly. Every week that they are still in dispute the elk population declines little by little. If they do not come up with a compromise soon the elk population could face serious problems in the next few years.

How to Turn a Deer Field into a Dove Field

Many of us multi-task everyday while at work, home, or in the car, but we aren’t the only ones who can multi-task our food plots can too. Yes, green field for deer can also transfer into fields for spring turkey hunting too, but they can do more.
A properly managed field can be used for deer, turkey, dove, and many other animals to hunt. If you want to turn your deer plot to be a dove plot also, the plots are limited to the annual plots planted for fall and winter hunting.
First select a field you want transformed. To turn that deer field into a dove field there are a few considerations to take into mind. A good dove field will need some large trees around it for roosting and inspecting the field for danger. You’ll also need water nearby for the doves to drink from. Don’t forget that doves like a lot of other birds need a little sand or pebbles to help digest their food so if a dirt or gravel road is nearby that will also be an asset. Some good plants to plant are sunflowers, grain sorghum, corn, or other grasses with a seed head. Sunflowers seem to work the best for a lot of dove hunters. Two weeks before dove hunting you might want to bushhog the field since doves are ground feeders.

Grizzlie Bear Hunting?? Not yet.

Just this March, grizzly bears in Yellowstone National Park were unlisted from the threatened list, after being on the list for 32 years, by the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service. Groups of wildlife conservationists are threatening to sue the USFWS because of the delisting, even though the three recovery goals for the grizzlies have been achieved.
Even though they are off the threatened list their welfare and population is being closely monitored by federal and state agencies. Right now, there are no real plans to have a grizzly bear hunt in the states affected ( Idaho , Montana , and Wyoming ), mostly because of the debate about the bears being delisted for hunting purposes. Many game biologists agree though that in the future hunting will be a major management tool for the success of the grizzlies.
While the debate is still going on Wyoming Game and Fish is setting the price for future grizzly bear hunting permits at $5,000 – a lot cheaper than the previous proposed price of $17,500.

Minority Hunters

No, I’m not talking about African-Americans or Latinos. I’m talking about women. There are now more than three million women hunters in the United States according to a study by the National Sporting Goods Association. This is accounting for about twenty percent of the hunters in America . This may not sound like a lot but there has been a seventy percent increase in the women hunters in the last five years.
For some people this might not sound that exciting, but for women already hunting this shows that hunting is becoming a more fashionable thing to do. This is also good for us men hunters out their. Tell your wife or girlfriend these statistics and she might be more readily interested in hunting.
A lot of women have problems finding gear to wear while hunting, since hunting is a male dominated hobby. Some women decide to wear youth clothing to save money. Others will just live with men’s clothing, but for some comfort is everything. So they opt for female lines of hunting clothing.

Gun Recoil Reduction- How to Reduce Your Gun's Recoil

Recoil can be one of the major factors in deciding to get a gun, but with some tips you will be able to master a gun with larger recoil. Let’s start off with a lesson in recoil. Recoil is usually grouped in two categories perceived and real. Real recoil is measured in foot-pounds and perceived recoil is what you perceive or feel; this has a lot to do with how the gun and you are designed.
To figure out real recoil there is a complicated formula, but there are a couple websites that will help you and pretty much do all the work for you ( is a good one).
To help prevent perceived recoil some adjustments to the rifle or shotgun can be made. If the gun is a loud gun getting a pair of earmuffs will help drown out the sound ( has some good ones). Sound even though it doesn’t sound (pun intended) like it, is a crucial factor in how much recoil you think the gun has. The drop in the stock also has a lot to do with where the recoil is directed, adjusting this will also help.

Four Recoil Fixes for Your Gun:

1. Get a butt plate pad or have one installed.
-This will help cushion the recoil of your gun and keep it from hurting your shoulder. This will allow you to shoot longer.

2. If you have an old rifle that has lots of drop at its comb, get a newer stock with less.
-Older guns had combs with a large drop. This makes it uncomfortable to shoot. And it focuses the recoil of your gun more towards your face.

3. Put in one or two inertia recoil reducers, this will add weight to your rifle reducing the kick.
-I know no one here wants a physics lesson but it is necessary here. The added weight in the gun will need more force to be moved. Since the amount of force doesn't change, the speed of the recoil decreases. Your body can absorb the slower recoil more effectively but the faster recoil causes bruises. It also helps your gun be more accurate since the gun is not moved as much from recoil.

4. Get a muzzle brake. These help a lot with real recoil but make sure you get some good earmuffs or the sound will make you deaf.
-I have a muzzle brake on my gun and it helps a lot. Though it is louder, all you need are earmuffs and your gun's recoil will be greatly reduced. One negative is the fact that muzzle brakes can be expensive to install.

Your gun's recoil can be a big factor in the amount of time you spend practicing. No one wants to be repeatedly pounded from your guns recoil. By reducing your gun's recoil you can improve your shooting form because you won't flinch and practice more allowing you to improve your shot.

For more gun tips check out:
Gun Maintenance
Best Turkey Gun
The .50 BMG Rifle- For Hunting?

What is a Real Trophy Buck

Every year thousands of hunters go out to try to bag the biggest, baddest deer. I’m not saying this is bad, but for a good deer management program you need to weed out the 4.5 year old deer with only 6 points that keep passing on these bad genetics.
Another thing that really disgusts me is all these game farms that you pay to get trophy deer. That is not how hunting is supposed to be. You’re not supposed to pay to get a deer. You’re supposed to learn tracking and hunting skills. You’re not supposed to be hunting in a fenced in area where deer have no real escape route. You’re supposed to be hunting in the woods where there are no fences and minimal signs of man except you. Hunting was originally a way of survival, but it’s turning to be all about the big racks and the bragging rights (that you paid to get).
I know some of you get your big bucks fairly and some of you guys go farther to get the old bucks with the bad genetics that keep passing down those bad genetics. That is what hunting is supposed to be like. Everyone should have a chance at a big buck and not just the people who have the bigger wallets.
I’m not saying getting a big trophy buck is bad, I would love to consistently. What I’m saying, is that, paying to get a trophy isn’t real hunting its shopping.

Turkey Hunting Tips: $30 Turkey Gun

If you ever need a new turkey gun, just buy or find (if you have on lying around the house) a youth gun. Youth guns are usually a little bit cheaper than adult guns and youth guns also have a lot of the same characteristics of a great turkey hunting gun.

About a year ago, I turned my old Mossberg 500 into a turkey gun. There are a lot of advantages with doing this. One is the size, the size of most youth gun barrels are around 20-21 inches, a very manageable size and great for turkey hunting. The small barrel keeps the gun from getting caught in bushes or trees while hunting. Also the stock is smaller which allows more control, and if you practice a little you will be able to shoot right or left handed. This will allow you to have the best position for a shot when you see a large tom turkey. Youth guns are also very light weight which allows for easy maneuverability.
Steps to turn your old youth gun into a prime turkey gun:1. Install a gun sling if one isn’t already on it ($10-30).
2. Buy and Insert a turkey or full choke ($15-30).
3. Optional: Upgrade the sights to a scope or red dot sight ($75-???).
4. Absolutely Necessary: Go out and kill some turkeys (Priceless).

There are some things money can't buy, for everything else, there's Master Card.